How to spray a rose from pests: drugs, natural protectors or folk remedies

Hello! I love to visit my parents at the cottage. Recently, my mother was carried away by floriculture, and in a short time grew a rose garden that just takes your breath away.

And recently I come and see drooping flowers and no less drooping mom. She bought in the store the first parasite remedy that she came across, not having previously studied how to spray a rose from pests.

And the flowers did not benefit. Together with her, we are now resuscitating her luxurious flowers. And at the same time I decided to tell how it is possible to save roses from pests. Details below!

How to spray roses from pests

Roses, like any other flowers, can suffer from diseases and pests. It is very difficult to cure these demanding flowers, along with chemical preparations it is important for them to ensure thorough care.

In the article I will tell you how to spray roses from pests, which preparations are better to use that will not harm the flowers, but will effectively relieve them of parasitic insects.

Pests of roses

Rose bushes suffer greatly from diseases and pests. Of particular danger to the flower are parasitic insects that feed on the juice and pulp of leaves and buds, causing the death of the plant.

Pests of roses:

• Spider mite. A small insect in appearance similar to a spider. Signs: the parasitic effect of the insect is clearly visible on the lower part of the young leaves, in this place an air web appears. The sick leaf is yellower and falls prematurely.
• Rose green aphid. The parasite forms colonies that infect young leaves, shoots and unopened buds. Aphids feed on the juice of a flower, thereby “sucking out” all the useful components from it. The plant affected by aphids withers, often dies.
• Rose leaflet. A danger to the roses is the caterpillars of the Butterfly leaf butterfly. Insects are located on the leaves and young shoots of roses, feed on flower juice.
• The shield is rose. Microscopic insects, the body of which is covered with white scales resembling a shield. The parasite feeds on the juice of the plant. The scabbard secretes a sticky fluid, which is a favorable environment for the development of fungal infection. Affected plants wither, their leaves turn yellow and fall off.
• Bear The insect is a huge danger to the roots of flowers. The bear eats juicy pulp of root stems. The parasitic effect of the insect often leads to the death of the bush.
• Pennitsa. The parasite settles in the bubbles of water, which is formed between the leaves and shoots of the plant. The insect feeds on the juice and pulp of the flower.The leaves and stems are deformed in the affected bush, buds are not ripening and shedding.

Pests

Treatment of bushes with insecticides is carried out in early spring until the time of kidney swelling. If the flower is affected by pests at the time of flowering, then spraying with appropriate means after opening the buds is allowed.

To control pests use:

1. "Actellik";
2. Karbofos;
3. Antio
4. "Metation";
5. "Rogor";
6. "Acrex".

Pest Protection Plants

There are plants that are “enemies” for most pests. If you plant these plants near the flower garden, you can not worry about the fact that roses will be attacked by small parasites.

Protective Plants:

• marigold;
• calendula;
• lavender;
• nasturtium;
• garlic.

Folk pest control

For the treatment of roses against pests, folk remedies can be used. Funds are prepared only from natural plants or products, so roses can not cause any harm.

Conversely, folk formulations are very effective against insect pests. In order to completely rid the plants of the parasitic action of insects, it is necessary to carry out multiple treatment of bushes.

To control pests use:

1. onion infusion - 10 l. liquid 1 kg. onion husks;
2. a decoction of citrus peels - 5 l. water + 1 kg. dry and crushed peels of tangerines or oranges;
3. tobacco broth - 2 l. liquids + 100 gr. tobacco
4. chamomile broth - 5 l. water + 1 kg. plant materials;
5. infusion of potato or tomato tops - 5 l. water + 2 kg. plant product;
6. yarrow broth - 5 l. water + 500 gr. Yarrow flowers and leaves;
7. decoction of dandelion - 5 l. water + 1 kg. roots, leaves and flowers of a plant.

Rose diseases

Most often, the rose is prone to the development of fungal diseases, where pathogenic fungi act as provocateurs. A favorable environment for the development of microorganisms is waterlogged soil, lack of nutrients in the soil, etc. Often the fungus is "carried" by the wind from weeds growing near the rose garden.

Treatment of roses must be started immediately, as soon as the first painful symptoms began to appear. A neglected pathological process, as a rule, leads to the death of the plant.

Powdery mildew

The cause of the development of the fungal process becomes overmoistening of the soil or increased humidity. Powdery mildew affects young leaves, stems, unopened buds and other delicate parts of the flower.

Signs:

• on the surface of leaves or buds a grayish (in the form of dust) coating forms;
• the plants wither, the leaves dry, begin to curl, and then fall off;
• flower growth slows down;
• the buds do not have time to open, dry and fall off.

Affected structural parts of the plant must be cut and burned immediately.

Treatment:

1. soap-copper composition - 10 l. liquids + 10 gr. chopped laundry soap + 50 gr. copper sulfate;
2. 2% composition of Bordeaux fluid;
3. solution of iron sulfate - 10 l. liquids + 300 gr. vitriol;
4. ash solution - a bucket of liquid + 300 gr. ash + 100 gr. laundry soap;
5. nettle broth - 500 gr. vegetable raw materials + 10 l. water;
6. mullein solution - a bucket of water + 5 l. organics.

Black spotting

The disease often affects roses in spring, when plants have not yet matured after severe frosts. A favorable environment for the propagation of pathogenic fungus is warm and humid weather. In addition, the development of black spotting is favored by a deficiency in potassium soil.

Signs:

• brown-red spots of various sizes appear on the upper side of the leaves;
• over time, the spots merge into a single whole;
• the affected leaf instantly turns yellow, withers and falls off.

Leaves affected by black spotting must be removed from the bush and burned.

Treatment:

1. 1% composition of Bordeaux fluid;
2. copper soap solution;
3. 1% baseazole solution;
4. nettle broth;
5. broth of horsetail field.

Rust

The development of the disease occurs at the end of April or early May.

Signs:

• in early spring on swelling buds, young leaves and stems appear tubercles-compaction of yellow or orange;
• on the reverse side of the affected part of the plant, a fistula is formed in the form of dust, it contains a million parasitic spores, which are easily spread with the wind to all adjacent flowers;
• the affected leaves fade and fall;
• the stems are deformed, become curved, dry.

Treatment:

1. processing throughout the flowering period with soapy water, Bordeaux composition 2% liquid, wormwood broth or nettle broth.

Gray rot

The causative agent of fungal infections are pathogenic microorganisms. A favorable breeding environment for them is waterlogged soil.

The disease is often triggered by improper watering, when the plants are watered late in the evening and before the night falls, moisture remains on the leaves.

Signs:

• dots covered with fluffy dust form on the surface of the leaves, then an ulcer forms in this place;
• the affected part of the plant dries, forming cracks and through holes;
• leaves prematurely yellow, fall off.

Treatment:

1. timely introduction of fertilizers containing manganese into the soil;
2. removal and burning of affected rose bush structures.

Preparations for the treatment of roses from diseases

Chemicals can be used to treat diseased bushes. The effectiveness of such funds has been proven. The most popular and effective means are:

• "Alirin-B" - treatment of powdery mildew.
• Gliocladin is a treatment for a wide range of fungal infections.
• “Gamair” - treatment of a spectrum of bacterial pathologies.
• "Topaz" is a systemic fungicide.
• "Chistotsvet" is a systemic fungicide.
• "Fundazole" - the treatment of various diseases.
• “Skor” - black spotting therapy.
• "Abiga Peak" is a fungicide for the treatment of bacterial and fungal processes.

Conclusion

1. Danger for rose bushes are diseases and pests. Untimely treatment of a plant can lead to its death.
2. To combat pests, traditional medicines and chemicals are used.
3. In the treatment of diseases, it is more efficient to use chemicals.

Pests of roses

If you do not start pest control on roses in a timely manner, then the flowers will lose not only their own attractiveness, but as a result of severe damage they will most likely even die.

Nevertheless, there are effective methods for the prevention and control of parasites such as golden bronze, thrips, sawfly, spider mite, weevil, aphid, walnut tree and rosacea. From the publication, the reader learns what pests of roses are and how to eliminate them.

Before starting work, you need to think about your own safety. The substances used for processing plants are pesticides, therefore, they are toxic.

Hands must be covered with rubber gloves, and it is best to use a respirator to protect the respiratory tract.

And after completion of work, open areas of the body, especially hands and face, must be thoroughly soaped and washed off with water.

Insect damage to rose bushes

In the period of active growth, roses are very vulnerable and require additional protective measures, because only their formed buds and first leaves are a food source for pests and their larvae.

By reducing the size and damage to the surface, the plant slows down in growth, decreases the volume and duration of flowering. Gnawing pests are capable of the following:

• nibbling the pulp of leaves around the veins in the form of holes, while the veins remain intact;
• gnawing the edges of the sheet (usually curly);
• making moves through the leaf body (mining) and plant stems;
• eating buds and petals from the outer edge;
• eating stamens and pistils.

The most common sucking insects that harm pink bushes are mites, aphids, scutes, and cicadas (especially whiteflies). The above pests can appear in both protected and open ground.

Phytophthora

Phytophthora is a mushroom infection that affects roses. The fungus can develop if humidity is increased in the root zone, and also infect both healthy and weak plants.

How to fight if late blight is diagnosed on a rose:

1. use only healthy planting material;
2. monitor the purity of the substrate;
3. prevent growing in waterlogged places;
4. take care of irrigation water: it should be warm and clean;
5. steaming the substrate before new plantings.

Rose aphid

Often, whole colonies of aphids attack rose bushes. Typically, these insects are located on the back of the leaves or on stems, flower processes and buds.

Within 8-10 days, recently hatched larvae grow and again give offspring. And so it is born up to hundreds of thousands of parasites per year.

The presence of aphids on plants is easily determined by the increased activity of ants that feed on sweet juice secreted by these insects.

They usually protect the settlements of these parasites and even transfer their females to new places that have not yet been settled to organize new settlements.

Ladybugs (seven-point) are happy to feed on aphids. One individual is able to eat up to 270 such larvae per day.

If green insects appeared on the rose, what to do:

• treatment with contact pesticides in early spring and always before the buds swell on the plants;
• insecticides: actellic, anti, karbofos, methation, horn.
• spraying with a solution consisting of water (10 l) and kerosene (2 g).
• processing plants with specially prepared composition. It includes mashed onions or garlic (300 g) and tomato leaves (400 g). Both ingredients should be placed in a 3 L jar, filled with water (to the brim) and left to infuse in a dark place for at least 6 hours. After this time, the infusion is opened, filtered and diluted with water so that 10 l of liquid is obtained.

For better adhesion of the solution to the leaves, you can add 40 g of 72% soap or the same amount of liquid green soap (preferably).

The resulting composition of rose bushes is treated 5 times daily for a week. The solution also gives good results in the destruction of ticks, larvae, sawflies and caterpillars.

Leaf cutter

To build their cocoons, leaf-cutting bees use plant leaves, including roses. It’s easy to understand that an invasion of these pests happened in the country, this bee species leaves semicircular notches in the leaves of pink bushes.

All folk methods of combating leaf-cutting bees are focused on making plants lose their attractiveness for pests. How to process a rose from these pests:

1. Soapy water. To prepare the solution, 1 bar of any soap is diluted in 5 liters of water. Ready solution to spray pink bushes.
2. Wood ash. The substance is sieved and generously sprinkled with leaves.
3. Tobacco sprinkles. It is placed in a bag of gauze and dusted with rose leaves.
4. Pepper topping. Thinly ground pepper (best of all burning pepper) is placed in a bag of gauze and sprinkled with plants.

All of the above funds have one undeniable advantage: they not only scare away the bees, but also serve to prevent the appearance of rosaceous aphids and other pests, regardless of who eats the leaves of roses.

However, it is worth noting that their effectiveness is not too high. These compounds are easily washed off by rain, so the bees may again become interested in plants, if the treatment is not repeated on time.

Ants

As mentioned above, ants contribute to aphid populations. Therefore, when these insects are found, it is worth getting rid of them in the first place. Identified several effective ways to deal with ants in rose gardens:

• The ground around the rose bush is generously sprinkled with spices or strongly smelling herbs that repel insects. You can, for example, use cinnamon, lavender or peppermint.
• Dripping some essential oil on the ground at the bottom of the rose bush. The most suitable will be tea tree or peppermint. Their pungent odor will quickly scare away the ants.
• Sprinkle abundantly in the rose garden with semolina or millet. Experts say that ants do not favor them.
• Chemicals that need to be scattered around plants are recommended for use. They perfectly repel pests. Such substances can be purchased in garden stores or in departments selling fertilizers.

Shield

Damage to rose bushes in the garden with scabies occurs much less frequently than the attack of other insects (for example, spider mites or aphids). However, they do no less harm to plants.

It is almost impossible to notice them immediately after the appearance. But there are characteristic features by which the appearance of shields on rose bushes is easily detected:

1. small spots of red or yellow color form on the upper side of the leaves;
2. a sugar pad appears on the vegetative organs, similar in appearance to aphid secretions;
3. a sooty coating appears on the leaves, they turn yellow and mutate (change shape);
4. shoot growth stops.

It is much easier to get rid of scabies if you start the fight in the early stages of plant damage. Therefore, it is extremely important to periodically carefully inspect the stems and the reverse side of plant leaves.

If there are sticky plaque and insects sticking tightly on the foliage, then it is worth starting the fight. Special preparations for the destruction of scale insects have not yet been created.

To do this, it is preferable to use a fabric rather than rigid devices, it does not damage the surface of the leaves and stems of the rose. To completely get rid of scabies, you need to cleanse for several days.

Using a soap solution to remove insects from plants has a protective function - a plant coated with such a composition becomes unattractive for scale insects.

It is additionally recommended to add a few drops of kerosene or engine oil (based on 5-6 drops per 1 liter of solution) to deprive pests of the ability to breathe.

Bronze

Who else eats rose buds in the garden? Bronze is a kind of greenish beautiful bugs. It is active from the beginning of May until the end of August. Beetles enjoy rose petals as food. They also like to eat stamens and pistils.

Bronze females lay eggs in the ground. By the end of summer, larvae hatch from them, which later pupate in the ground, where beetles hatch. The latter winter in the soil and are selected to the surface only with the arrival of heat (in May).

In the morning, beetles sit motionless on flowers. At this time, they need to be collected, and then burned. Also, rose bushes are then required to sprinkle with mustard. You can still cover the plants with a special mesh so that insects cannot reach them.

Whitefly

This insect looks like a white butterfly, reaching a length of 3 mm. It is a sucking parasite dangerous to plants. Its larvae draw juices from flowers, eat up the pulp and spread phytopathogenic diseases, which contributes to the destruction of the rose bush in the shortest possible time.

Adult pests easily fly from one rose bush to another, but the larvae do not move much, but they stick tightly to the rose bush and are able to secrete a wax-forming substance that saves them from exposure to insecticides.

In addition to roses, other plants suffer from whiteflies:

• fuchsia;
• myrtle;
• ferns;
• eucalyptus;
• geranium;
• gloxinia;
• calla lilies;
• grenades;
• henbane.

To find these insects, just touch the pink bush in June. A swarm of pests will fly right there. Even the appearance of white flies should be alarming. Plants should be checked immediately for infection.

It is safe for humans. To completely eliminate the settlement of whiteflies, it will be necessary to spray the plant about 3-4 times.

If for some reason the phytoverm did not give a positive result, then it is recommended to use the actar substance or other insecticides in complex use. This agent causes paralysis of the digestive organs in insect larvae, and after 24 hours they die starvation.

For this reason, it is better to alternate the insecticide with other substances, for example, confidor and tanrek. In difficult situations, highly toxic substances such as actellic are used. As an alternative, you can use the following medicines:

1. kinmix;
2. carbofo;
3. vertimek.

When using insecticides, you must remember to observe safety measures.

As folk methods in the fight against whitefly use:

• The solution is on ash. For its preparation, 1 tbsp. wood ash should be dissolved in 5 l of water and infused for 3-4 hours. After that, 50 g of any soap is added to it and rose bushes are sprayed.
• The infusion of tobacco. To prepare it, you need strong tobacco (you can gut 1 pack of cigarettes), which is poured into hot water, stirred and insisted for 5 days. Then it is filtered and rose bushes are sprayed with the resulting liquid.
• Garlic infusion. You need to take 5 cloves of garlic, chop them, add water (250 ml) and leave for insisting in a closed vessel for 1-2 days. After that, the infusion is filtered through a thick (at least triple) layer of gauze and pink bushes are sprayed with it. Making a solution is simple, the effect is positive.

Rose circadian

This type of pest is very common and can cause great harm to roses. Under the influence of these insects, the leaves of the plant lose their decorativeness, become “marble”, and white small dots appear on their surface. With severe damage, the leaves turn yellow and fall ahead of time.

The best period for the destruction of pests is the time when larvae appear in large numbers (in autumn in September). During this period, plants should be treated with insecticides at least 2 times with an interval of 10-12 days. When processing, it is worthwhile to capture the territory bordering the rose garden.

Leaf fleas

These are small jumping green insects on a rose - parasites that suck juice from leaves.As a result, the bush is covered with small dots of white color, which gradually lead to the fact that the plant prematurely discards greens.

Effective measures to prevent the appearance of fleas, as well as methods of treating plants from flower beetles, still do not exist, but it is advisable to use biological products to prevent the mass spread of insects.

Now, knowing almost everything about pests of roses, you can not be afraid to plant these magnificent flowers. In addition, if parasites are prevented in time, ticks and fleas can completely bypass the rose garden.

How to spray roses from diseases

The queen of the garden is not the only person who ignores the rose. Numerous diseases and pest attacks damage the health and beauty of the gardeners' favorite. The rose is especially vulnerable in early spring, as weakened over the winter.

Therefore, it is very important to process roses efficiently after winter in order to prevent infection of bushes with infections, to protect against the first hungry pests.

What fungicides to apply in spring

Immediately after the opening and sanitary pruning of roses, the first treatment is carried out against fungal pathogens.

More often the treatment is called “blue spraying”, it is carried out with Bordeaux liquid or only 3% copper sulfate.

Iron sulfate with the addition of potassium sulfate is also used for prophylaxis (3% and 0.3% solutions are combined, respectively).

Often used other industrial fungicides.

1. "Abiga-Peak" inhibits the causative agents of powdery mildew, rust, spotting, bacteriosis of roses, while it is safe for pollinating insects, beneficial inhabitants of the soil. For spraying, 40 g of the drug are dissolved in 10 l of water.
2. "Oksikhom" - a drug of similar action. It is quickly absorbed by tissues without the risk of being washed away by spring rain. The working solution is prepared from 60 g of the product and 10 l of water.
3. HOM prevents the main diseases of roses. Easily washed off by rain, so use it with a favorable weather forecast. Safe for healthy residents of the rosary. A spray solution is prepared from 40 g of fungicide and 10 l of water.
4. "Cuprolux" is highly effective in combating rust, various types of spots, powdery mildew. The composition includes two active substances: cymoxanil quickly penetrates into the tissue, copper chloride protects the rose from the outside. 25 g of the product is stirred in 10 l of water and treated with a solution of bushes.

All drugs are bred in strict accordance with the instructions, an overdose negatively affects both the condition of roses and the viability of beneficial insects. After 15 days, roses are sprayed again to consolidate the effect of drugs.

Pest treatment

Processing has its own characteristics. If the previous season was not marked by an invasion of insects, the bushes can not be sprayed.

If the attacks were widespread, the rose garden is processed, coordinating the time of the prevention with the timing of the awakening of pests after winter.

Against the rosacea sawfly, two weeks later, they are re-treated with Aktara. From aphids, spraying is repeated at the beginning of the formation of the buds.

In the phase of leaf deployment to protect against leaflets, shoots are sprayed with Nitrafen, and Fufanon or Aktaru are used for shoots from the rosette.

Anti-thrips treatment is effective when the soil warms up to + 14 °. First, the soil is shed with Aktara solution, a week later the bushes are sprayed with Confidor Extra.

The amount of chemicals used in the rose garden is reduced by mulching the trunk circle with black material. The soil should be warm by this time, dry.

Folk remedies for spring processing of roses

The use of chemicals for spring processing of roses effectively solves problems with diseases and pests. But often summer residents try to avoid spraying with potent drugs.

For example, when roses are grown for the preparation of medicines or use in cooking. The problem is solved by folk remedies, time-tested, with which you can spray roses in spring.

Against powdery mildew

In 10 liters of water, 1 kg of freshly made mullein, 200 g of ash is bred. Insist a week, periodically mixing.

The finished infusion is filtered, they are treated with roses at the first manifestations of the disease. Re-processing is carried out after 3-4 days, if the first did not give the expected result. If the disease persists, the ash-manure mixture is alternated with chemical or biological fungicides.

From rust

More I.V. Michurin used euphorbia, including weed, to fight the disease: the juice of a freshly plucked plant smeared rust spots on diseased cultures.

To prevent the development of fungal diseases, it is important not only to spray roses with special preparations in a timely manner, but also to feed the bushes with potash fertilizers: strong, strong tissues and the walls of their cells are “too tough” for fungal spores.

From pests

Popular experience offers the following recipes.

• 400 g of tobacco dust or shag with 10 liters of water are boiled for about half an hour. It is allowed to infuse for 2 days, after which it is filtered through a canvas, 40 g of soap (green or household) dissolved in a liter of water are added. The mixture is mixed well, roses are sprayed with it.
• 300 g of onion (garlic) and 400 g of green tomato tops are passed through a meat grinder. The mixture is insisted in 3 liters of warm water overnight, filtered. Pour 40 g of liquid soap and bring the volume to 10 liters.
• Grind 200 g dry (or 600 g fresh) chilli peppers, add 2 l of water, cook for 1 hour over low heat. Insist the broth for another 2 days, filter, add water to a volume of 2 liters. The solution is very strong, before use it is diluted with water 1:10, soap is used for sticking.
• Dry wormwood (1.5 kg) or yarrow (1 kg) is insisted in 10 liters of water for 2 days in a dark place, filtered. Before the very spraying, 40 g of liquid detergent is added to the solution.
• Fresh horse sorrel roots (200 g) are finely chopped, insisted for 2 hours in 10 l of warm water. After filtering, soap (40 g) is added.

Given universal recipes, roses can be processed starting from early spring, from the moment of opening, to late autumn.

Spring treatment calendar for diseases and pests

Measures to prevent diseases and pest injuries include such procedures as top dressing and treatment with stimulants and adaptogens. All spring events to protect roses from diseases and pests can be combined into the following plan:

1. Immediately after removing the shelter - cleaning the near-trunk circle, removing winter mulch, loosening the soil, spraying with Epin-Extra, shading.
2. For 2-3 days - inspection and sanitary pruning of shoots, garter, "blue spraying" against fungi, checking the heating of the soil.
3. On the 4th day - top dressing under the root with a complete complex fertilizer with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
4. On the 10th day - treatment with an insecticide as necessary.
5. On the 14th day - spraying with Epin-Extra.
6. On the 17th day - repeated "blue spraying", mulching the trunk circle.
7. On the 24th day - about the need for repeated treatment with an insecticide.
8. On the 28th day - repeated top dressing with complex fertilizer.

Feeding is a very important element of the plan. Normal potassium nutrition makes growing plant tissues more durable and less attractive to pests.

It also becomes more difficult for fungal spores to grow through a rigid cell wall. Thus, immunity increases in roses, and thanks to this, the pesticidal load on the rose garden can be significantly reduced.

Errors in spring processing roses

When carrying out preventive treatments of roses after removing winter protection, it is important to avoid the following common mistakes:

• Processing without preliminary sanitary cutting. If the bushes do not winter well and damage is visible on the shoots in the form of black spots, mold, frost, spraying will not bring the expected benefits. All damaged areas must be cut to a healthy tissue.
• Raw shoot treatment. After removing the shelter, condensation is detected on the shoots. In this case, you need to give him the opportunity to evaporate, well ventilating the bushes, and only after that carry out spraying.
• Processing under the sun. The active spring sun in combination with chemical solutions can cause tissue burns and even kidney death. Processing should be carried out in cloudy, calm weather.

What to process for effective protection

Pests of roses can cause serious harm to your pets. It is very important preventive protection of roses from pests. If roses have already hit pests, do not despair. Many of them can be easily dealt with.

How to process roses to combat spider mites

A spider mite for roses is especially dangerous in dry, hot summers. The optimal conditions for its development is the temperature + 29 ... + 31 ° C with air humidity below 35%.

Under such conditions, the number of ticks increases rapidly, because every 10-15 days a new generation of the pest appears.

Ticks suck out the cellular juice from the leaves, as a result of which small light spots (injections) appear on them, the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off.

The most effective in combating spider mites are Iskra-M and Fufanon. Spraying roses in the presence of a tick must be repeated after 10-12 days until its harmfulness decreases.

Processing roses, as well as other plants, should be carried out in the evening or morning hours. If you need simultaneous protection against diseases and pests, all recommended insecticides can be mixed with fungicides immediately before spraying, except for the Bordeaux mixture.

Removal of protective shelter from roses in the spring

In Russia, roses rarely winter without shelter, so the spring care program for the “queen of the garden” begins with the removal of protection.

This is a very crucial moment, and mistakes can lead to unpleasant and even fatal consequences. If you take cover early, frost can damage swollen kidneys. If you are late, the bush will spit out.

They begin to remove protection when constant positive daytime temperatures are established, and the nighttime values ​​of the thermometer cease to fall below -50 ° C.

To reduce the risk of damage to the shoots and give the roses time to adapt, the winter shelter should be removed in stages, for three days:

1. 1 day: opening the ends or raising the shelter from below;
2. 2 day: removal of shelter from the eastern side of the bush;
3. 3 days: removal of protection from above.

If the roses were mulched, it is necessary to move the mulch to give the soil the opportunity to warm up faster.If the activity of the sun is too high, in the first days after removing the shelter, roses need to be shaded. If serious return frosts are expected, it makes sense to throw a layer of spunbond on the bushes.

Errors in spring processing roses

When carrying out preventive treatments of roses after removing winter protection, it is important to avoid the following common mistakes:

• Processing without preliminary sanitary cutting. If the bushes do not winter well and damage is visible on the shoots in the form of black spots, mold, frost, spraying will not bring the expected benefits. All damaged areas must be cut to a healthy tissue.
• Raw shoot treatment. After removing the shelter, condensation is detected on the shoots. In this case, you need to give him the opportunity to evaporate, well ventilating the bushes, and only after that carry out spraying.
• Processing under the sun. The active spring sun in combination with chemical solutions can cause tissue burns and even kidney death. Processing should be carried out in cloudy, calm weather.

Being engaged in the prevention of diseases and injuries by pests, one can not rest only on agrochemistry, forgetting about the agrotechnical method.

Thorough soil care, normal irrigation regimen and timely top dressing can complement, and in some cases completely replace, spraying with chemicals.

Pests of roses, cicadas, scoops and walnuts

Rosaceae in adulthood resembles an apple leaf-flea. Larva is white or pale yellow with a wedge-shaped pointed abdomen. The larva is 2-3 mm long and 0.8 mm wide.

With a large number of pests, damaged leaves fall prematurely. Roses growing in warm, protected places are especially affected by the cicadas.

The pest itself is a small white-yellow insect with two pairs of wings, which in a calm state fold over the roof-shaped back. The length of the adult insect is 3.5 mm, the width is 0.7 mm.

Eggs hibernate on branches at the base of the buds and in the forks. Larvae appear during budding. Develop during May-June.

Unlike larvae of aphids and leaf-sheaths, they are very mobile: disturbed, quickly run away to the opposite side of the leaf.

At the end of June, the larvae begin to develop wings, and they turn into nymphs. In early July, there is a winging of cicadas, adult insects appear.

Winged cicadas, like larvae and nymphs, settle on the underside of the leaf, sucking juice from them. After fledging, the adult circadian leaves the leaf on which it is fed, and flies away to the grass and other plants or branches.

On the damaged leaves - whitish with a marble color - leaves on the underside remain white skins after molting of larvae and nymphs. In addition to roses, cicadas damage rose hips and other plants from the Rosaceae family.

Scoops are caterpillars that live in the soil and feed mainly at night, so often only traces of their activity are visible.

If there is a lot of damage, use pest preparations (the same as against aphids), spray in the evening after sunset.

Nut-makers cause the formation of characteristic lumpy growths - galls. They are able to destroy the entire rosehip crop, drain the bush.

With severe damage, growth decreases, winter hardiness of plants decreases. Walnuts in the form of larvae in damaged fruits overwinter, years of adult insects and infection of young ovaries takes place in late May - early June.

What else can you spray roses from pests

"Lightning" - a drug for the destruction of insect pests of decorative and other crops in personal subsidiary plots. It is distinguished by a quick initial and long-lasting protective effect.

Prepare a solution for spraying plants immediately before processing. Pour 1-2 liters of water in a bucket, open an ampoule (2 ml) or a bottle (10 ml), pour the required amount of the drug into a bucket of water and carefully move, then bring the working solution to 10 liters and mix again.

For best results, spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather in the morning or evening.

Apply the working solution with a sprayer, which gives a fine spray on the lower and upper side of the leaves. When spraying, it is necessary to achieve uniform wetting of the leaves. The optimum temperature during processing is from +12 to + 25 ° C.

The speed of exposure to insects - within the first hour after treatment. The period of protective action is not less than 14 days.

This drug from pests of roses is dangerous for bees, so do not carry out processing during flowering. Do not allow the product to enter water bodies.

"Fufanon" - a means to combat insect pests.

In the fight against numerous pests of garden crops, we are forced to use various types of drugs. Fufanon is one of them. This is an analogue of Karbofos.

When preparing the Fufanon working solution, pour 1-2 liters of water in a bucket, open the ampoule, pour 5 ml of the drug into a bucket of water and mix thoroughly.

Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather in the morning or evening, evenly moistening the leaves.

The optimum temperature during processing is from +12 ° C to +25 ° C. To avoid hit of working solution on the next cultures. Strictly observe the waiting time after processing. Do not spray against the wind.

The speed of exposure to insects - during the first hour after spraying. To prevent insects from getting used to the drug, the use of insecticides from various chemical groups should be alternated.

"Fufanon" is dangerous for bees, so do not treat the plant during flowering. Harmful to fish - do not allow the product to enter water bodies.

"Actellik" is a pesticide for a wide range of crops in various conditions of their cultivation (in a greenhouse, in a garden, in a vegetable garden).

In greenhouses it is effective against pests, including spider mites, whiteflies, aphids, and thrips, with a waiting period of 3 days between the last treatment with the preparation and the harvest.

Actellik has a wider spectrum of action than pyrethroid drugs, because it contains organophosphorus compounds.

The ability of "Actellica" to destroy pests with its fumes makes the drug indispensable for the treatment of hard-to-reach spots. The redistribution of the drug over the plant enhances its effect on pests that live on the underside of the leaf.

Apply "Actellik" by spraying plants. 15-30 ml of the drug is stirred in 10 liters of water. Spray in the presence of pests on plants.

Reprocessing (if necessary) - with an interval of at least 5 days. The flow rate of the working fluid is 4-7 liters per 100 m2.

For successful fight against whitefly, 3-4-fold treatment is recommended. Such a schedule for spraying will disrupt the pest development cycle and provide high-quality plant protection against both larvae and adult individuals. Wintering pest control is less effective.

For high-quality spraying, use a sprayer with a small droplet or fog-forming spray, which provides uniform coverage and wetting of the leaf surface of plants.

Warm and humid conditions of the protected ground enhance the effect of the drug in pairs and ultimately increase its effectiveness. In open ground "Actellik" is used against aphids, moths, bugs, butterflies, caterpillars, ticks, whiteflies.

Actellik can also be used to combat household insects (cockroaches, flies, fleas, ticks, mosquitoes). Read the instructions for the drug.

"Initiative" is a soil insecticide against soil-borne insect pests of flower and other garden crops. For uniform application of the preparation, fill the liter container 3/4 of the volume with dry sand, add the contents of the package (30 g) and mix thoroughly.

The drug is not phytotoxic. The effect of the drug manifests itself within a day after application. The period of protective action is 6 weeks. It should not be mixed up with other drugs. The addiction of insects to the drug does not occur.

"Zemlin" - a means to protect flower crops from soil-borne insect pests. The contents of the package (30 g of the drug) is designed to process 10 m2 of plantings of flower crops.

For uniform application of the preparation, fill a half-liter container with dry sand or sawdust, add the contents of the package and mix thoroughly. On flower crops, apply the mixture to the soil before planting.

“Alatar” is a universal preparation for combating insect pests in gardens and personal subsidiary plots. Destroys 28 types of pests! It inflicts a double blow on pests, as it contains two active substances at once.

The drug consumption is 5 ml per 10 l of water for spraying 100 m2 of vegetable or flower crops, or from 2 to 5 fruit trees, depending on their age and crown size.

The multiplicity of spraying is no more than two, the waiting period before harvesting is 30 days.